Trolling Motor Comparison Chart

Trolling Motor Comparison Chart

There you are standing on the dock with a brand spanking new boat and it’s calm out there so you’re fired up and ready to put some licks in. You flip the switch and boom! There is no propulsion and all you see is the prop chewing through thin air up above water. That’s what makes purchase of a trolling motor more than simply ticking a box at the checkout counter or selecting a brand name. It involve waiting, weight, and geometry. This chart explains it all by pairing your boat’s bow height with the right shaft length. This save you from ever finding yourself with a prop floating around in front of you.

Everyone believes if they get the biggest motor possible then that’s all good. But it isn’t. Horsepower isn’t thrust. Thrust are the steady force needed to push a vessel of a certain weight through the water against current and wind. The old “rule of thumb” (see graphic below) indicates two pounds of thrust per each 100-pounds of total vessel weight. That takes into account your cooler, your tackle box you’re gonna only ever use half of, your passengers and more. Why does it work? There is always that day when the lake feel like an open highway instead of a still pond. This allow for a bit of wiggle room on those windy days. Upgrade by one size. This is good advice, because running a smaller motor at full speed drains a battery faster than idling or slowing down a larger motor.

How to Choose the Right Trolling Motor

The type of motor mount change how the boat handles more different than almost any other factor. For instance, bow mounts position the outboard in front of the boat. This pulls the boat and keeps your feet on the deck while hiding the prop under the hull, allowing for very precise steering control. This is gold standard for bass anglers since you want to hold your spot against the wind and stay on top of the cover.

Transom mounts clamp on the rear of the boat and are much easier to install. This make them popular for small aluminum boats, canoes, and especially kayaks, where easy removal and weight saving matter more than precision tracking. You sacrifice some steering precisian for versatility and affordability. If you’re not looking to set tournament records, it’s a fair trade.

Where it’s mounted is important, and so is the voltage it operates at. Single batteries are fine for entry level thrust, they’re typically on a 12 volt system. Upgrading to two batteries wired in series (a 24 volt system) delivers ample thrust for most serious anglers while drawing down batteries slower. Top end thrusters uses thirty-six volt systems when maximum thrust is needed. This is common on large cruising boats and big pontoons. As the infographic points out, lithium batteries are an upgrade option worth considering. Costing more initially, they do however offer large savings over time due to their longer life and lighter weight compared to lead acid batteries. That lighter weight add up to improved gas mileage if you tow your boat long distances.

Nowadays our interaction with them is smarter. You never have to drop a physical anchor again thanks to GPS anchor lock, which uses a satellite signal to hold your exact position. With auto-pilot you can program a track and leave it steer itself down that route. This frees up both of your hands for reeling and casting which is exactly what moddern anglers shell out big bucks for electronics. You’re not really buying the cool stuff but the time spent fishing instead of fiddling around with controls.

Ultimately, it’s all about what makes you comfortabley. If you’re really going hard with a bow mount then foot pedals are still the gold standard. You have some tactile feedback and they work great. For other anglers who like more mobility throughout boat, wireless remotes allow you to go wherever you want in the boat without having to worry about your foot pedal snagging on something. And if you’ve got an existing chartplotter setup, app control is the way to go because it ties it all together. It just depends off how much equipment you already have and where you sit when fishing.

Determine how much weight your boat holds and what it sits on top of (bow height). Choose your thrust rating based off the minimum and go up a level for peace of mind. Determine what style mount work best for your budget and your boat type. Finally, choose the control system that feels right. Having the proper motor makes the lake seem smaller and easier to manage. It takes the fight out of gear and puts the fish back into the equation. Every hour you spend researching the details before purchase should of paid off in spades with that change of focus.

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