Freshwater Shrimp Compatibility Chart

Freshwater Shrimp Compatibility Chart

Shrimp keepers know what I’m talking about. It’s the sinking feeling you get after staring into your planted nano tank and realizing there are no more shrimps where there were dozens before. What did you do wrong? You can’t fix it either; a single error in your tankmate selection can lead to heartbreak.

Freshwater shrimp aren’t exactly durable, especially when it comes to livig together. They’re good for keeping aquariums clean of algae but they don’t handle living with other creatures very well. The graphic up top differentiates between safe and dangerous tankmates. This way you won’t learn the hard way that cherry shrimp don’t mix well with goldfish.

How to Keep Freshwater Shrimp Safe and Happy

“Any fish that’s smaller than me can be my tank mate.” For those who don’t know, that’s a common mistake. Just because something is small doesn’t mean it will get along. A betta may appear small enough for community tanks with neocaridina, but he’ll see those shrimp more as an appetizer then a roommate. And while there isn’t necessarily malicious intent involved, it’s just part of their biology. Their mouth is made for picking off small moving prey. They might be fed all day, every day, but they’ll still attempt to consume your shrimps. It’s not because they want to; it’s who they are. Remember, these are naturaly incompatible species.

There are also living beings that improve the life of shrimps. These include Pygmy corydoras and otocinclus catfish. These ones don’t share same ecological niche. They are not going after shrimps but rather sifting substrates or grazing algae. According to the compatibility grid, Otocinclus catfish and pygmy corydoras is compatible in 40L tanks upwards. The bigger the tank, the better it dilutes waste products and offers more shelter. Your shrimps should never be chased; they must feel safe.

If you place a mystery snail or a nerite snail you use extra cleaning staff. Shrimp will never compete with snails for food sources. It’s a win-win situation because everybody do its own work.

Beyond tankmate selection, water parameters are important too. Higher general hardness and slightly alkaline water favor cherry shrimp. Crystal red shrimp require softer, more acidic water. Combining the two lead to death and stress. Because neocaridina colors will cross breed (as stated in the visual guide), it also dilutes specific color lines if you’re attempting to keep pure strains. It’s a hobbyist trap where people assume all cherry shrimp or red cherry shrimp is alike. If you’re breeding for specific traits, they’re not genetically identical. Separating them maintains the visual look of your collection.

Not only do you need to select the right species of fish, but also the right type of habitat. Shrimp will tuck themselves into dense moss such as anubias and java fern to make small habitats for their offsprings. Standard power filters will suck up baby shrimp so a sponge filter is a must. Think of it as a fortress for your occupants.

Using copper in any quantity at all is deadly, and I mean trace amounts deadly in a matter of minutes. That’s a tiny little detail that shuts down many tanks way to early. Freshwater shrimp keeping isn’t really a matter of acquiring animals. It’s a matter of creating and maintaining an eco-system. And the trick to that is to create a series of safe zones. This is where the chart comes into play. But, remember that while the chart is a map, what you see will be your compass.

Begin with non-aggressive bottom feeders and plants that are compatible. Once the bio-cycle stabilizes, begin adding shrimp slowly. There is no hurry. Allow the bacterial colonies to develop. Allow the moss to thicken. Time equals everything here and patience is the only currency. If you’re lucky enough to witness a female shrimp with a saddle full of soon-to-be eggs glowing like the night sky, then every minute you planned would of been worth it.

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