It happens all too often. A perfect cast turns into a frustrated tangle of line and fly fisher groans. You felt the rhythm in your casting arm, you watched the loop form as you released it into the air.
And then, there it goes. Bird’s nest on the water. It’s personal.
Truth be told, you probably have yourself to blame but more than likely it’s your fly line. That spool of plastic you keep on your reel doesn’t hold leader and tippet alone. It’s the heart of your delivery system; it’s what puts the “fly” in fly fishing.
When it won’t load correctly, sheds its coating, or knot easily, each cast is a struggle between the laws of physics and manufacturers who don’t seem to care. Fly lines is considered disposable by most anglers. They buy one, use it until it looks ragged, and replace it when they feel like it.
Next thing ya know, you’re out of fly line and its time for another spool. That is not how it should of be. Your presentations stays delicate and your timing remains sharp with a well maintained fly line.
You stop fighting the gear and start focusing on fish. Understanding the common failures give you the power to stop the problem before it spoils a day of fishing. From the sudden snap of a melted core to the subtle wearing down of coating, this list contains stuff that matters.
Fly Line Problems Every Angler Should Know
1. Memory Coil
Perhaps the most persistent annoyance in fly fishing: Memory coil. That’s where your line doesn’t lie down on the water, instead maintaining the form of the spool inside the reel. You pull out 30 feet, and it resemble a spring.
Most often the culprit lie with winding the line real tight onto the spool for extended periods of time. Because plastic has…well, it has memory. Literally.
It likes to go back to how it was stored. And if you store it coiled up tight for six months, it’s going to coil up tight on the cast as well. This causes it to resist air, break apart the loop structure and kill your distance.
The simple solution is patience. Unwind all of the line completely and set it out flat on some kind of flat surface. Or even better, hang it up vertically so that gravity can get to work.
Every time you’re done fishing. Not just when you notice some coil. It takes five minutes.
It prevents hours of frustration.
2. Delamination
There’s also a type of degradation known as delamination for sinking lines. These lines is created using several layers of PVC (and other plastics) in order to give them their desired rate of sink.
Whether caused by age, abrasion from rock or prolonged UV exposure, over time the adhesive holding the layers together break down. The line becomes bumpy and look wrinkled. It’s rough to the touch.
That’s not good; it means that there’s an increase in drag on surface. You’ll feel a jerky motion and your cast won’t have much momentum. Worse yet, the inner strength of the line will decrease.
Because the layers aren’t uniformly bearing weight, a delaminated line has a higher likelihood of snapping when placed under tension. If you notice the wrinkle effect, it’s time to retire that line. Polishing or waxing won’t resolve a structural issue within the plastic.
3. Knots
Knots aren’t as frequent today than they once were, at least on fly lines. The new coatings used to make current floating lines has a gel-like coating to help them slip through each other without any problems. But if you notice a knot forms, especially near the tip, it is likely due to a manufacturing flaw or heavy wear.
This will damage core of the line. Or it could be a tiny knot that doesn’t show itself until the line begins to get bunched while being retrieved. Then it becomes a potential weak link for a failed connection when hooked into a fish.
This also suggest that the back end might be coming off or there is an issue connecting the backing and fly line. Pay special attention to how your loop to loop connection is made. If the loop has been pulled out a bit, then all of that force get concentrated on a short piece of main line and will cause the line to fail prematurely.
Avoiding these hidden weaknesses starts with a good solid loop to loop connection.
4. Coating Wear
The other problem is that old line wears down its own coating. This slick exterior help the line glide easily through the air and through the guides.
As that coating breaks down, the line get sticky. It starts catching itself, leading to inconsistent casts and tough retrieves. You’ll know if the line isn’t coming off your rod tip cleanly.
It’ll clump up instead. Friction creates heat, and the heat cooks the line, making worse whatever damage has already been done. To combat the slickness, some guys apply homemade mixtures and commercial wax products to their line.
While these do temporarily solve slickness issues, they don’t address wear and tear. If the coating is gone, then you’ve hit the end of the line’s performance window. It’s best to retire it before it breaks during a battle with a powerful fish.
5. Water Absorption
Sinking tips and intermediate lines is silent killers. Because these lines are designed to sink, any water absorption will change the weight and density of the line, resulting in inconsistent performance. The line may not sink as far as intended or it might be “lumpy,” causing it to sink inconsistently.
You’ll know because your indicators won’t sink as low as they should and you’ll see drag before you’re ready to start casting. The extra weight from absorbed water will make longer casts difficult. Lines that have been exposed to moisture (humid environments) for a long time tend to do this more often.
If your lines has been kept wet during storage, you’ll experience water absorption. Avoid storing tackle in moist environments and check your sinking lines periodically for any loss of flexibility or swelling. That knowledge changes the way you maintain your line.
It’s not just another piece of gear; it becomes an important part of your equipment that requires attention. Always look at it before a trip. Is it flat?
Are there any knots or wrinkles in it? If so, it might be time for new line. Simple tests like these save major headaches on the water.
With the line dialed-in, you can concentrate on things that matter most… Reading the water and landing fish. Take care of your stuff and the river pays back with improved casting accuracy and increased confidence when you get bit.